Kerstin Neumuller is a tailor who loves sewing with tiny stitches. With her partner Douglas Luhanko she runs a shop in Stockholm called Second Sunrise. In it they sell jeans, run craft workshops and have a repair studio.
This, her second book, is a practical handbook, and is perfect for anyone who wants to sharpen their mending skills, and lead a more sustainable life style.
Packed with advice on how to combat wears and tears, the book shows the basics for mending jeans and button holes, how to repair pockets and seams, how to darn a hole in your best knitted jumper, and how to work with different materials, including denim, cotton and wool.
Techniques for showing mends and making a design statement are given, as are the techniques for making hidden mends.
You are shown how to use a sewing machine to mend, how to add pockets and reinforcing using thick threads. The mends for knits, especially Swiss Darning are amazing and there is even a section on mending leather.
This is a really useful and lovely book
Published by Pavilion at £12.99 All photographs by Hampus Andersson.
Sorry you’ve just missed it, as it closed the 14th January. Palm Springs art museum held a fabulous exhibition SCRAPS: Fashion, Textiles and Creative Reuse. I am posting this now as I feel it is so important that we understand the world has finite resources, and those that recognise this and try to do something about it should be applauded and publicised. The exhibition featured the work of three women, from three continents, who put recycling at the heart of their design process. Luisa Cevese from Italy, Christina Kim from Los Angeles USA and Reiko Sudo from Japan all share a profound respect for scraps as repositories of raw materials, energy. labour, and creativity. Inspired by the long tradition of using handcraft to give new life to scraps and cast-offs, each takes an entirely different approach to contending with textile waste.
Christina Kim the founder
of the Los Angeles-based fashion brand Dosa, has always drawn inspiration from
traditional textile cultures around the world. Working with local artisans, she
provides sustainable livelihoods by engaging in long-term collaborative
relationships and paying fair wages. Her longstanding reverence for hand woven
cloth led her fifteen years ago to jamdani
-the gossamer cotton saris
worn in Bengal, India and Bangladesh became the fabric for her 2003 collection.
Recognising the cultural history and human creativity embedded in the cloth,
Kim collected the cutting-room scraps and had them pieced and appliqued into a
wholecloth by skilled embroiderers in Gujarat, India. A second generation of
clothing was cut from the re-engineered fabric in 2008, and the scraps gathered
from this collection were made into tikdi, or small dots, appliqued on silk
scarves until all the scraps were used. Equally important to Kim’s zero-waste
approach is her intent ‘to help keep different traditions alive… investing the
human hand with more or as much value as the material itself.”
Sudo is Japanese she was born in 1953
She has been transforming how we think about textiles for the last three decades. She is the principal designer and managing director of Nuno, founded in 1984 and known for combining Japanese handicraft tradition with textile technologies to create extraordinary futhe silk cnctional textiles. Always conscious of the impact textile production has on the environment, Sudo has recently explored the creative potential of silk waste. Since 2007, her primary focus has been kibso – the outermost layer of the silk cocoon that protects the delicate silk underneath.
Retrieved before the silk reeling process, kibiso is too coarse for industrial weaving, but working in collaboration with the city of Tsuruoka, Sudo has converted kibiso into finer yarn that can be machine woven. During her kibiso experimentation, Sudo discovered another silk waste, ogarami choshi, a residue that sticks to the spinning shaft and has to be cut away. When the layers of the tightly curled material are peeled apart, they can be pressed together to create a translucent patchwork paper.
Sudo takes kibiso
fabric scraps and machine embroiders them onto a water soluble mesh
that is then dissolved to give an open lace-like effect.
Luisa Cevese was born in
Italy in 1955
In India there is very little wasted, used
saris are cleaned, repaired, and sold on the second hand market. Luisa uses the
waste from the sari refurbishment –
damaged borders that are cut when the saris are re-hemmed. One of her ongoing
fabrics since 2009 is Muticoloured Taj textile
scraps of sari embedded in polyurethane.
In the week that we embraced environmental day, I thought it would be a good idea to post a creative way of using up old Plastic bags. I purchased a simple frame loom from a thrift shop but the similar can be found at Hobby Craft or Tiger or you can make your own using a picture frame and some nails. I displayed the hanging from a broken branch I found in the garden.
Plastic bags in a variety of colours
Cotton warp thread or string
Fat twig or thin branch for hanging
Cut the bag into strips 0.5cm wide. Knot the strips together so you have one long strip.
Thread the loom by tying on the thread at one side and then going backwards and forwards between the top end and the bottom end of the frame. It is important to maintain an even tension. Tie off the thread in the same way as you tied on the thread.
So that the weaving doesn’t fall out when you finish you will need to make a twisted header. Cut a piece of warp thread about two and a half times the width of the warp. Twist the thread round each warp thread in turn. As in the image.
When you get to the end of the warp return in the opposite direction push the threads down and tie off at the end.
Thread the plastic onto the shuttle and then starting in the middle of the warp take the shuttle under and over until you reach one end, then go back the other way.
As you work push down the weft to cover the warp. When you have made a stripe of one colour change to another.
To make tassels cut strips of plastic (blue)about 20cm long. Choose a middle section of the hanging and put the blue plastic behind two warp threads at the same time. Wrap one side round one thread and the other round the other , pull the threads through to the front of the hanging. Add as many of these as you like. Mine was so bunchy that when I hung it up I gave it a bit of a trim.
Weave another block of flat weaving. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to finish off.
Pull the ends off the loom and then thread onto the branch. Cut off the warp threads from the other end of the loom and knot them one to the next one.
Check that you are not creating a waist by pulling in the sides of the warp as you work.
Butterfly chairs are currently in vogue again. I saw lots of them at Maison et Objects in Paris. They were covered in a variety of fabrics and skins including leather and pony skin.
I bought this old butterfly chair in a junk shop for £10. The cover was rust stained and not very nice so I decided to give it a revamp.
You will need
3 metres of white cotton drill
Dylon goldfish orange machine dye
Dylon Tulip Red machine dye
Dress making scissors
15mm bias binding
Cut the fabric in half and using the instructions on the pot, dye half the fabric red and half orange.
Draw round the old cover to make a pattern and don’t forget to add the seam allowance
Cut out the pieces and sew the pieces first in one colour and then in the next together as in the original pattern.
The only difficult part is pinning and stretching the seat top to the seat bottom as you are joining a concave piece of fabric to a convex piece. With right sides facing, pin the top of the seat to the bottom at the center seam. Sew from the center of the seat outwards stretching as you sew. This way the two pieces will fit together. Repeat this step to join the other half of the chair top to the chair bottom.
The pockets for the front and back of the seam are neatened at their bases and then sewn with raw edges onto the cover. This is repeated for the reverse of the seat.
Once the pockets are in place, with wrong sides facing, sew the seat top to the seat bottom round the edge and then hide all the raw edges with bias binding.
I had a lamp shade in need of some TLC at the same time i had some very nice fabric remnants left over from other projects so I decided to combine them.
You will need
Half meter of silk fabric
Half meter of Butterflies fabric
Thin bendy wire
Wire cutters and small jewelers pliers
1.Roughly cut out the butterflies and iron onto Bondaweb.
Cut out the bondawebbed butterflies, I saved three butterflies to iron onto the backing fabric, the others I made 3D.
To make the 3D butterflies, cut two lengths of wire, and using the jewelers pliers bend to roughly the shape of the butterfly wings but slightly smaller. Or bend one piece of wire that goes under both wings.
Peel off the backing paper from the reverse of the butterflies, sandwich the wire between the butterfly and the backing fabric, iron to fuse the fabrics together and encase the wire. Using a zig zag stitch, being careful not to catch the wire, sew round the edge of the butterfly.
Cut out the wired butterflies.
Measure the circumference of the lampshade and add a 2cm seam allowance to the length.
Measure the depth of the shade and add 5cm for turning in.
Arrange the flat butterflies and the 3D ones on the lampshade fabric. Once you are pleased with the design, take a photo, then remove the 3D butterflies.
Peel the backing paper from the three saved butterflies. Iron to fuse onto the lampshade fabric.
10 Using a zigzag stitch sew round each butterfly.
Looking at your original image, arrange, pin and sew the 3D butterflies down their backs onto the lampshade fabric.
Fold the lampshade fabric in half with the butterflies on the inside of the fold.
Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew down the center back. Turn the cover the correct way out, slip it over the shade. Arrange the fabric so the turning allowance at the top and bottom is equal.
Fold the turning over the top edge of the frame, glue in place, repeat with the lower edge of the shade.
Note: the butterflies may have become crumpled during sewing so rearrange them.
Make these lovely recycled Christmas stockings from an old blanket or jumper and decorate with easy blanket stitch and pom poms
You will need
Old blanket or jumper
Paper and pencil
Caron Simply Soft yarn in Neon Orange, Neon Green, Neon Pink and Burgundy, £4.95 each
Draw a boot shape onto paper and cut out. Fold your blanket or jumper in half, then pin on the paper pattern cut out using pinking shears.
Sew the two boot shapes together around the edges, wrong sides together, using blanket stitch – and remember to leave the top unstitched. There are lots of YouTube videos that teach blanket stitch – don’t worry, it’s easy! Sew running stitch around the top of the boot on both sides.
Make a plait from wool and fold it in half to make a hanging loop. Sew onto the top of the boot on the side with the heel. Make the pom poms (use two doughnut shapes of cardboard to do this, exactly like you remember as a kid!) and attach to the stocking with yarn as a final flourish.